Borgoluce

The winery resembles a Noah’s Ark with alternative energy, a Garden of Eden with photovoltaics. A blissful combination of a stunning natural setting with traditional agriculture and innovative thinking, it is without doubt one of the most interesting estates between the Dolomites and Venice.

1,000 years, 1,000 hectares

For more than a thousand years the noble, Italo Austrian Collalto family has lived in Susegana near Conegliano. Comprising more than a thousand hectares of forest, meadows, fields and vineyards, the estate mindfully respects an affinity between humans, animals and nature. Vowing responsibility for future generations, the entire property is farmed ecologically. A large part is already certified, the rest is in the transitional phase.

Although their Proseccos are excellent, the rest of Borgoluce’s portfolio is no less impressive. The estate raises some two hundred Duoro pigs for the production of meat and sausages. In addition, over four hundred water buffalos and seven hundred Limousin and Charolais cattle provide milk for cheese and yogurt. Of course, there are also horses, sheep, poultry and bees. Moreover, all of the energy needed to run the estate comes from renewable sources.

Innovative and sustainable agriculture

The mastermind behind Borgoluce is Lodovico Giustiniani, a descendant of another old noble family, who in 1998 married into the Collalto family. Together with his wife, Caterina, and her sister, Ninni, he is now managing the estate. Borgoluce’s current reputation is the result of their combined performance.

An agronomist by training, he is a visionary who has remained close to nature, but without any esoteric touch. Audacious on the one hand, he is also quick in rising to contemporary challenges. Two other perfect examples of his back to the roots philosophy are Borgoluce’s gluten free, slow food crackers made of Biancoperla and Marano corn and their delicate oil from Frantoio and Leccino olives. As an experiment, they have also planted a few hectares of hemp, but only for textile fibre extraction, as Lodovico explains with a smile!

Ambassador of the region

The family has equally ambitious goals for their Prosecco. “Almost every consumer knows at least one Champagne brand by name,” says Lodovico, “but hardly anyone can remember even one of Prosecco”. His dream is clearly to establish Borgoluce as a well-known and highly respected label or, as he says, “a sparkling ambassador for the region of Veneto”. Although some 40% of the production is currently exported, Lodovico wants to further strengthen the domestic market. “You cannot be successful in foreign markets over the long term if you are weak in Italy,” he insists, which is why he is proud that Borgoluce is served by the glass at the prestigious Hotel Four Seasons in Florence and at the Caffè Quadri on the Piazza San Marco in Venice!

Weathered rock, chalk and queen Glera

The soil in the Susegana hills is composed of weathered rock and chalk, perfect for growing the grapes for the base wines needed to produce pure, bone dry Prosecco, which is becoming more and more important for Borgoluce. Although up to 15% of other grapes like Verdisio or Bianchetta are permitted for Prosecco, Lodovico relies only on what he calls “queen Glera”.

Moreover, Borgoluce has chosen to use only grapes from their own vineyards, an important decision for an estate of such a size. The vineyards are farmed organically, without any pesticide, fungicide of chemical fertilizer. Three hectares are already certified organic, the remaining 28 are in transition to biodynamic agriculture.

La prisa di spuma

After destemming, the Glera grapes are gently pressed. As Lodovico explains, “It’s a question of philosophy. Some winemakers want to preserve the tannins of the stems in their wines, but we do not. I prefer the fresh primary apple fruit, with hints of wildflowers, acacia and herbs on the nose”. The grapes of each site are fermented separately at about 10°C and then remain on their lees for up to five months, when the blends are then made. The only exception is the single vineyard »Rive di Collalto«, which also sports its vintage.

The second fermentation takes place in large tanks using the well-known Charmat method that is so typical for the region. As in Champagne, a mixture of sugar and yeast is added to the base wine induce the process, called here “la prisa di spuma”, ensuring the lively bubbles that the world enjoys. As this is only additive, the natural sugar content of the grapes defines whether the Prosecco is Brut, Extra Dry or Dry.

In 2017 Borgoluce opened a new centre with space for visits, tastings and training. The underground cellar lies fifteen metres below the garden terrace, embedded in the cool gravel from the nearby river, Piave. Thanks to the permeable concrete walls and shafts for air circulation, Borgoluce has natural air conditioning with no need for electricity.

The portfolio:

»Lampo« Brut
Prosecco DOC Treviso

A first taste of Borgoluce’s vision, Lampo is fresh, with youthful aromas of peach and apple. The perfect way to begin a meal, it is 100% Glera with a residual sugar of 12 g/l.

»Rive di Collalto« Extra Brut
Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG

This is Borgoluce’s top single vineyard Prosecco, always with the vintage specified on the label. Between Valdobbiadene and Conegliano there are 43 classified “Rive”, which is merely the local expression for hillside. 100% Glera, with five months on the yeast, subtle aromas of acacia blossom and a residual sugar of only 3 g/l it is bone dry, mineral expression of the site.

»Gaiante«
Valdobbiadene Prosecco DOCG

Unfiltered, Gaiante is probably Borgoluce’s most authentic Prosecco. 100% Glera, the second fermentation takes place in the bottle, leaving no residual sugar. With fine aroma of fruit, brioche and wild spices, it is the perfect companion for salami, prosciutto, grilled fish and risotto.